Sonam Gyatso  was born in village Kewzing (correct spelling is khto-shing- meaning wheat-field). South Sikkim. In the lap of mighty Kanchenjunga (28,208 ft) in 1923. He started his career as a school teacher and later joined the Indian Air Force. He was recruited as Head Constable in 1949 in the Frontier Constabulary Force when his career took a turn. After completing his first Basic Course at the Himalayan Mountaineering Instituer. Darjeeling in 1954, he was selected for the expedition to Nanda Devi (25.645 ft) in 1957. Although, this expedition was unsuccessful because of worst blizzards, not many mountaineers in the world ever reach even 25,000 feet and the fact that in his very first attempt he reached that height

speaks highly of his skill and stamina. Thereafter he blazed a trial of glory in his great mountaineering career for the next seven years.

Then came the historic climb of Cho Oyu (26,897 ft) in 1958. Pandit Nehru personally congratulated him and gave him a handsome reward. It was a first time an Indian expedition had reached so high.

    The first attempt o    The first attempt on Everest was made in 1960 which was unsuccessful because of bad weather. However, he could reach upto just 700 feet below the summit. In recognition of this feat, the I.M.F. awarded him its gold medal. He was the first recipient of this honour. The President awarded him Padma Shre. Sikkim made him jigmi Singhi. He was promoted in his service also.

After the unsuccessful first Indian attempt on Mount Everest, the Indian Mountaineering Foundation decided to sponsor three expedition during 1961 to give further experience to those climbers who would be selected for the bigger expedition The peaks selected were Nanda Devi, Nilakantha and Annapurna III. Sonam Gyatso was selected for Annapurna III (24,858 ft) which was said to be remained unclimbed and unexplored so far. Inspite of bad weather and heavy snowfall Sonam Gyatso alongwith his two rope partners Kohli and Girmi went up slowly and painfully inch by inch forward. It was a struggle of human endurance and will power against the elements at their worst. They could finally step on the virgin peak of Annapurna III on May 6th at 4.15 p.m. In congratulating the team, the President of India Said- "May the spirit of adventure and purposeful exploration ever continue to inspire India's youth and the Services, whom you represent, to still greater achievements."

In 1961, three months after the return from the successful ascent of Annapurna III, while other team members were resting, Sonam volunteered to lead another expedition for training and acclimatization of the members of his  organization to the southern approaches of Kangchenja West (22.603 ft) in North Sikkim. Under his leadership,, this expedition which was quite difficult also became successful. This peak had not been climbed till then As a mark of respect on the 28th October 1961 all the members were received by the Chogyal of Sikkim.

When in 1962, he again failed in his second attempt on Everest, when just 400 feet short of the summit, everyone lost their hopes. Probably he would not be able to make it again. But Sonam was not despondent. he assured that he would succeed at the attempt. It was only the weather that had beaten him, not the mountain. His faith was irrepressible. He had faith in himself. He had faith in his family. He had faith in his organization, in his government and in his country. He had complete faith in God. Nothing, no calamity ever of the greatest magnitude, could shake that faith. There was a conviction in him that Everest would ultimately be reconciled to him.